廣告沒告訴你的保養品祕密.

每個季節保養的方法不同，因此在保養時要特別注意，不當使用保養品，除了浪費時間金錢，肌膚狀況也會越來越糟。業者為衝高銷售量，建構許多保養迷思，各式保養品一味往臉上塗，只會增加肌膚負擔，用對方法才能讓肌膚隨時保持完美狀態。

針對男女的不同、膚質的差異以及季節變化，將最基本的保養程序做得正確完整，讓肌膚完善吸收才是最重要的。亞洲大學營養保健系兼任講師張麗卿建議，讓保養回歸需求面，有需求才去解決，沒有需求就順其自然，才不會落入消費陷阱中。以下就4個基礎保養問題，請教保養專家。



(圖片提供／大家健康)





Q1化妝水主要只是補充水分？

化妝水最初是為提高肌膚含水量，以保濕為基本調性，可讓皮膚有緊緻感，是最基礎的保養。現在產品樣貌越來越多元，品名已經很難直接說明功效，市面上許多美白、淡斑產品，即在化妝水內添加保養成分，使整套產品功效完整。

並非每個人都需要化妝水，洗完臉後皮膚若已達到濕潤飽和，就不會繼續吸收水分，可由每個人皮膚吸收水分的速度看出；若在精華液前使用，更容易讓精華液均勻分布吸收，降低保養成本。

不管目的是保濕亦或其他保養功效，台大醫院皮膚部主治醫師邱政偉提醒，使用化妝水過後，記得要再擦上保濕凝霜、乳液、玻尿酸等鎖水產品，讓油水平衡，否則補充的水分仍會繼續蒸散，且因為水分子彼此牽引的特性，水分可能流失更快。



Q2皮膚吸收量有限，保養順序怎麼排？


皮膚的表皮厚度約僅0.2公釐，而且細胞構造緊密，保養品穿透深度有限，所以要先塗最需要的保養品。

建議塗抹保養品時把握幾個訣竅：先小分子後大分子、先水後油、先熱敷後擦保養品。若先擦大分子或油性產品，便會堵住小分子與水性產品的吸收，而若要進行熱敷等保養，也需在塗擦保養品前進行，以免流汗排出就白費了。

另外，要增加皮膚的吸收，可以運用電脈衝導入的方式，在皮膚表面加上微弱的電流，會顯著的增加保養成分穿透皮膚的量，提高皮膚的吸收，達到更好的效果。

邱政偉另建議，可以在一天中的不同時段使用保養品。這和一般少量多餐的養生原理相同，可以讓皮膚慢慢吸收、消化、運用各種的保養精華，以達到所有期望的功效，也可避免皮膚吸收不良，浪費了珍貴的保養成分，或是過量反而造成皮膚的負擔。



Q3保養品有男女之分？老化肌膚如何對付？


邱政偉表示，男性體內的雄性荷爾蒙會讓男性的皮膚比同年齡的女性皮膚厚一些，出油也會多一些，女性因為雌性荷爾蒙的影響，膚質較為細。男性的乾性肌膚可能跟女性的中性肌出油量差不多，但同類型問題的解決方式還是相同。

兩性互用保養品在各方面皆無問題，只要切合自己的需求即可，唯男性易出油可能需要較頻繁的清潔，而女性使用男性的清潔用品也要留意自己肌膚，若感到肌膚異常緊繃，就是洗淨力過強了。

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